![]() ![]() ![]() Learn how to check the AC plug, USB-C cable, and USB-C ports. Check the plug, USB-C cable, and USB-C ports ![]() ![]() If the spark comes from somewhere other than the blades of the plug, if you experience any damage or discoloration of the adapter, or if you have other concerns about sparking, contact Apple. This is usually normal and can occur when you plug any electrical appliance into a live outlet. Sometimes when you plug the power adapter into the wall, you may see a spark. Look for sparks, discoloration, or damage If your power adapter continues to turn itself off when connected to a known good outlet, take your adapter to an Apple Authorized Service Provider or Apple Store for further evaluation. Plugging the power adapter into an uninterruptible power supply (UPS) or an outlet that's on a different circuit can help. Some possible sources of line noise include lights with ballasts, refrigerators, or mini-refrigerators that are on the same electrical circuit as the outlet you're using. The power adapter automatically shuts off when its built-in voltage protection feature senses line noise from an outlet. If your Mac laptop starts charging after you plug the power adapter back in, this might indicate an issue with line noise (disruption caused by stray electromagnetic signals) from your power outlet. Unplug the power adapter from the wall, wait 30 seconds, then plug the adapter back in: If you're not using a Mac with Apple silicon, reset the SMC. If your Mac still won't charge, shut down your Mac and close the display for 30 seconds, then open the display and try to charge your Mac again. If the power outlet works, connect your USB-C power adapter and try to charge your Mac. Unplug your USB-C power adapter from the power outlet, then plug in a known good device, such as a lamp to confirm it powers on properly. Make sure that you've connected your USB-C power adapter to a working power outlet. Easy to replace if you have the service manual you just have to take out the optical drive case first.If your power adapter isn't charging your Mac laptop, unplug the power adapter from the power outlet, wait a few seconds, then plug it back in. Of course it it wouldn't have helped I would have been stuck with it, but probably been able to resell it. It cost me $244 I think for a new one with a DOA guarantee. I don't know where I saw one for $100 like I mentioned above, I couldn't find that vendor/deal again. If it had been the logic board, I wouldn't have been able to get it replaced anyway.Īfter about three months with a new power supply I haven't had one problem. Of course if it hadn't been the PS I would have been out more money overall, but unfortunately in my situation you have to take those kind of chances. I'm disabled and on a fixed income and have little money, so I took the chance of it being the power supply instead of taking it to a costly tech. I was getting by just letting it sleep, but then I started having an issue where the 'sleeping light' on the front would stop throbbing but the system wouldn't not come on or it might instantly freeze, so I had to take action. If it was a bad/cold solder joint as mentioned above, that would also be the case. I was also thinking along the line that some obscure part in the PS might have needed to warmed up just at the right amount at the right time. This system has hardly ever been used and is off most of the time.Īlso, if 'Kolvir' ever got his system fixed and how he did it.Īny of you please respond. I'm going to try 'tobyglyn's' suggestion first because it makes sense. My theory is that the initial surge of being plugged in with the power with the power button being pressed at the right time is getting the power supply over some hump. There is something about catching the power supply at a good moment just after it getting power from the AC line and pressing the power button that does the trick. Simply reseting the SMC does not have the same effect. I can get the system to start up by unplugging it and plugging it in several times repeatedly and eventually pressing the power button will start the system. I VERY SERIOUSLY do not think it is the processor board. The PWR SUPLY test LED is good at every step of the process with the exception of getting fans and power when I reinsert the processor board. system and when though every isolation step and never got anything definitive. I'm Apple Certified so I tore it down to min. Pressing the button again generally does nothing. I went to turn it on this weekend and there is a small initial click followed shortly by a second and final slightly different sounding click and then nothing. My MP 2009 remains off most of the time since it is just a backup. I have two towers a MacPro Early 2008 (my production system) and a MacPro Early 2009 (my backup system). I'm having the EXACT same problem Kolvir was having. ![]()
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